This will enable you to experiment with things like straw a whole lot more.... Your answer is corncob... This is sold as animal bedding. Again, check supermarkets, farm stores, department stores and pet stores. All of them have it.
Here is what you do...
1. Cover with water and boil it for about 30 minutes. A big pot, maybe 5 lbs or more of corncob is fine.
2. drain the water out (I know it looks dry and like it didn't absorb enough water... don't worry)
3. Place it in a covered plastic container to cool (use seran or foil to cover if you want).
4. Take 1.. yes you only need 1.. PF cake and place in a clean blender (no I didn't say it had to be sterile).
5. Add 4 cups of water.
6. Blend for 2 seconds...
7. Start over.. I forgot to tell you to put the lid on the blender.
8. Pour this grey magical smelling slurry into the corncob.
9. Mix very thoroughly (yes I know how much water is in there.. read #10).
10. Drain excess water.
11. Cover with alluminum foil.
12. Place in warm (85f) location.
13. Wait 24 hrs (yes that actually is a little growth you see there).
14. Wait 10 days and it is completely colonized.
There is no need for sterile precautions if you already have a PF jar grown out. This gives you a huge amount of spawn to play with.. like for innoculating straw, or wood, or cardboard, or whatever...
A good rule of thumb for the amount of corncob is to use a standard dishtub (12"x14") and fill with the boiled corncob to about 4 inches. This is fine for 1 PF cake and 4 cups of water. This method works because corncob is extremely resistant to contamination (but not impervious) and because you are going way way overboard with the amount of innoculant. But it does work. I call it Massive Mycellial Slurry (MMS) and the process Massive Mycellial Innoculation (MMI).
I promise you will not be disappointed....
Growing Mushrooms in Soil
The original copy of this document can be found at the Lycaeum.
Simplified instructions.
NEEDED:
1. 9" diameter round Tupperware (tm) plastic food-saver pot-like thingy, which comes with lid. Should be 4.5" deep.
3. Vermiculite -- $2.79 (2-gallon bag) at K-Mart. If you go to their garden department, they won't have any and they'll tell you they don't sell it. They do -- they LIE -- but NOT in the garden section.
4. PF spore syringe -- $10.00.
5. Coffee beans. I have a coffee tree growing in my house, so it was EASY to acquire them. Unfortunately, grocery-store beans are NOT good because they have junk in them and have been roasted BLACK and have NO shells on them. The fungus seems to like the shells MORE than the nut inside, which is whitish. I tried other types of beans, berries and seeds - and NONE worked. They needed too much moisture, and of also needed to be soft and sterilized for the fungus to have a shot at infecting it -- the very same conditions that favor bacterial growth. The coffee beans work miraculously well and DO NOT NEED TO BE STERILIZED. The soil is forgiving, as it retards infective outbreaks. Hey, it worked for me. If nobody can find coffee beans, and I manage to MASTER my techniques so that they can be consistently reproducible, then perhaps I'll consider sending people coffee beans. I BUY my coffee -- when I want coffee -- and I don't have a coffee grinder, so the beans are otherwise of no use to me. Unlike Juan Valdez, I have better things to do than to open shells and roast coffee beans for a lousy cup of coffee.
Coffee beans are good because they don't dessicate quickly and always seem to be moist. In fact, when you place them on the soil dry and cracked, the shells seem to draw moisture from the soil, providing a nice medium for the fungus. You can leave the beans out normally for seeming eons, and no infection appears. Place them on soil that has been sprayed with spores, and they show fuzz in a couple days.
6. Fresh sheet of copy-paper.
TYPE OF CLEANLINESS NEEDED:
Clean room: Nope, don't worry about it.
Sterility of envronment: Nope, don't worry about it.
Sterility of utensils touching soil: Nope, don't worry about it.
Sterility of soil: If you purchase sterilized potting soil and sterilized maneur, that is ENOUGH. Don't worry about it. If the stuff ISN'T sterilized, place tupperware in microwave and heat that sucker up until its really hot. Then take it out, let it cool, and STIR ALOT!
PROCEDURES: THE GOOD PART
1. Fill container with soil mixture and make sure mixture REALLY IS a mixture. If not, OR if you made the soil solution yourself, then STIR THOROUGHLY. Add SOME (you decide, I used 1 cup) vermiculite, and stir.
2. Cut, drill, or force (4) NAIL-HOLES into the SIDE of the tupperware container .75 (3/4) INCH BELOW the surface of the soil, ON THE SIDE OF THE CONTAINER -- EQUALLY SPACED APART. This is for adding MOISTURE TO THE SOIL WITHOUT WATERING THE SURFACE, with the aid of the USED SPORE SYRINGE.
3. Cut coffee beans in HALF, but leave shells on. Place them into a cup of water for 5 minutes, then remove and place on surface of soil, halfway inserted, pointed up (beans ~ ovular shaped)
4. Take CLEAN cup, fill with vermiculite and HOT water. Allow soaking, and then remove the vermiculite and wring out partially with aid of paper towel. Scatter small quantity of vermiculite on surface of soil. You don't want to COVER the soil completely, but just patchy. It holds moisture and prevents dessication of soil surface.
5. Water soil LIGHTLY. You DON'T want the surface to be TOO moist, or you MAY have contamination. Contamination will EITHER appear as white spots, OR as tiny greenish dots. The healthy mycelium is a thick white fuzzy thing. If contamination occurs, consider your project a failure. I tried this several ways, and only ONE way became contaminated; I used a lot of moisture, and placed it in ABSOLUTE darkness with LID on for 2 days. Tiny green spots appeared UNDER the white fuzz. So at early stages, mycelium WILL NOT fight off infection. I don't know WHAT this green stuff was, but it moved in FAST.
6. Spray surface of soil with 3 CCs of spore solution -- plenty.
7. Place PAPER sheet OVER surface of pot (plastic) and put NEAR radiator. DO NOT -- I REPEAT -- DO NOT COVER TUPPEWARE with COVER, or an infection is ASSURED! Max heat = 85 degrees F. Covering with LID is beneficial for one-hour periods DAILY. But if you leave it on, it will become infected. You can and SHOULD always leave the paper on. Don't ask me why; I did several pots and I'm telling you what works. The key reason why this works is that the fungus, unlike bacteria, seems to have NO PROBLEM invading the soil quickly without a lot of moisture. Of course the fungi would like a little more, but better safe than sorry. If you keep the moisture level LOW, then you will most likely succeed. Once it raises above a critical level, there goes the neighborhood!
8. Daily, remove paper and inject small quantities of CLEAN water UNDER surface of soil. You can, as I did, water the surface VERY lightly with the syringe. But be careful, or you will damage the mycelium. You NEVER -- I REPEAT -- NEVER want the SURFACE to SEEM WET, or even MOIST. It doesn't NEED to be really moist for the fungus to spread like MAD. Think DRY, as it is BETTER too dry than too moist. As long as there is PLENTY of oxygen, a VERY small amount of moisture is PLENTY at the beginning stages.
9. Withing ONE WEEK, the surface should be NICELY covered with mycelium. The heaviest patches will be AROUND the beans. The first areas to colonize will be the beans, about 2-3 days after spraying. Stir the soil up around the surface. This will SEEM to destroy the mycelium, and when you are finished, there will be NO MORE WHITENESS on the surface. Don't fret, it will shortly grow back. After stirring; water, scatter a little moist vermiculite, and place the paper back.
10. Within another 8-12 days, as long as the container is BESIDE the radiator, the fungus will COMPLETELY take over the surface of the soil again (VERY THICK). When it does, and when it is REALLY THICK, you can take the pot and place it into a terrarium like the one described in MMGG. Make sure it is WARM (85 Deg F), and make SURE it is HUMID. Case it with moist (wet and wring out) vermiculite and set in dark for 4-5 days, before turning on the aeration and light. Within a week, PINNING will start.
DISCLAIMER:
The key advantage to my method is that you do not need a sterile environment; the soil is VERY forgiving. If you try the other methods, YOU MUST -- I REPEAT -- MUST guarantee sterility, or you will UNDOUBTEDLY FAIL. Even after the fungus has partially colonized, bacteria will have NO PROBLEM RACING IN and taking over immediately! Many people have succeeded in doing it, but many have also failed.
A good method of testing out your sterilization techniques:
Take jar w/ substrate and sterilize it.
Remove it and place it somewhere.
Wait a week, open and smell. If it smells funky (putrid), then you would have failed.
THE GREAT TIMOTHY HAY COB CUBENSIS METHOD
1. First, you must obtain a pure culture of psilocybe cubensis. I don't see any reason why multi-spore inoculation wouldn't work (presuming they'll germinate on hay) or why one couldn't use a multi-strain grain culture, but I used a pure culture I'd previously isolated. (Note: Don't be afraid! Agar work is much easier than you might think!)
2. Grow out some grain spawn. I use 'organic' whole rye grain steeped in near-boiling distilled water for an hour or so (as suggested by Stamets, produces uniform water content grain and minimized contaminants). Just before the grain is ready add some gypsum to the pot and stir well (I use about a gram for every quart jar's worth of rye grain, but I don't know how important precision is...doens't seem to matter much...). The gypsum helps keep the rye from sticking together post sterilization. Sticking frequently results in bacterial contamination. So use the gypsum (Try health food/herb co-ops), Drain the grain, scoop into mason jars and sterilize at 15 lbs for 1 hour. I use autoclavable filter disks (from Fungi Perfecti and others) in lids with holes cut through, but I'm sure loosened jar lids would work fine. I inoculate the sterilized, cooled-down grain with mycelial solution. Shake once after three days or so and perhaps once more several days later if needed, but the grain should be fully colonized within 10 days at most if liquid inoculum is used.
3. Get an "LM" brand "Timothy Hay Cob" from a pet store. Should cost $3-$4 for a package like a big bread loaf. (Note: I ended up cutting up the hay AFTER pasteurization, but you'll probably want to do this beforehand. Try and keep the pieces no longer than 4 inches or so. But don't worry about some bits being longer)
4. Place as much of 'cob' as possible in a large pot. Fill with distilled water (actually, I think I used a 50-50 mix of distilled and tap and it worked fine). You must be able to submerge the hay completely with a weight or a weighted lid.
5. Bring the water to a near boil and reduce heat to keep temp more or less stable. Pasteurize for one hour.
6. Drain hay in a collander. Shake well.
7. Place hay in an "oven bag". These are special plastic bags used for cooking turkeys and so forth. They are heat resistant.
8. Hold bag with hay upside down with bag open. Shake and squeeze to get rid of remaining excess water.
9. Let hay cool in bag until it fully reaches room temperature.
10. Take fully colonized jar of grain spawn. Wash hands and rinse with rubbing alcohol. Air dry. These were the ONLY sterile precautions I used, but you may want to observe some more. Break up grain spawn and mix thoroughly with hay in bag. I used most of a quart spawn jar (figure one pint of spawn). Liquid mycelial inoculation would definitely work at least as well, spore inoculation is a possibility.
11. Let hay sit in bag for three-four days. The bag should be twisted loosely closed but not sealed or tied. You want to allow some respiration while retaining most of the moisture.
12. After 3-4 days the mycelium should be growing out vigourously onto the hay. Handling the hay through the outside of the bag, knead and pull at it between shakings. You want to break up the bigger mycelial mats and redistribute them throughout the hay. You can also open the bag and work it like a bellows to help exchange the air. You may find that the hay punctures numerous small holes in the bag. This is okay, and may help respiration.
13. I gave the hay a couple of squirts of distilled mist at some point fearing that it might dry out. But I doubt this was necessary, despite the very dry climate.
14. Every few days, repeat the breaking, mixing, and aerating procedure.
15. DON'T worry about contamination. If you pasteurized the hay properly, you should have a couple of weeks before anything else really has a chance to compete with the mycelium.
16. When the hay looks like there's mycelium within an inch of any given spot of hay, leave it alone to complete colonization. The whole process should take a bit less than 14 days.
17. When there is at least whispy mycelium across all the hay (and if you've been mixing well, throughout it), it is ready to be laid out. You can use whatever terrarium setup you used for PF cakes, or use this low tech setup:
1. Get a big Rubbermaid storage container, a plastic drop cloth, and some chicken wire. Melt a hole in one of the bottom corners of the container. Wash it out well.
2. Cut a piece of chicken wire and fold over the ends and sides to make a platform that will stand at least an inch above the bottom of the container. Fit this down into the container. Spray the insides of the setup with lysol or the like and let completely dry.
3. Break up the colonized hay and lay it out on the chicken wire. It should be more or less evenly spread but don't go crazy breaking up the hay. Make it at least two inches deep. Don't know what the maximum depth would be...
4. Unfold plastic drop cloth and drape over container. It will not make anything like a sealed environment BUT IT DOESN'T SEEM TO MATTER. Your mileage may vary so if you feel the need be more precise with environmental controls.
5. Let hay recuperate for a couple of days.
6. Twice per day, take off plastic tarp. Use lid of container to vigourously fan hay to exchange air. Replace tarp and lifting up one end stick spray bottle beneath and spray distilled water with the finest possible spray into the air. Experiment. I used only a few spritzes at first and more and more as the mushrooms grew. The lack of a drip shield doesn't seem to matter, though when I'd redrape the tarp I'd arrange it so that a piece without major condensation or water drops was above the hay. Redrape plastic. If necessary, tilt setup to allow excess water to drain out hole. Leave setup in a temperate place (mid to upper seventies to allow pinhead formation) with some light exposure. Any light is probably fine, a little natural light probably best. Don't overdue light. Very little is required.
7. In one to two weeks, the texture of the hay should begin to change dramatically, you may not realize that this is pinning, as it should appear that the entire service of the hay is turning to pins.
8. Keep up the fanning, spraying routine as the pins turn to primordia, and the primordia to carpophores. Enjoy the sight of dozens of large mushrooms springing forward.
9. Pick them just after or as the veil is breaking. While you won't have to clean off any vermiculite, you will want to pull off as much hay as possible. Some hay will be inside the stems. Don't worry about it.
High Fun Guy's 10-step -=Quicky Colinization=-
This is an improved way to get your cakes to colonize faster.
Supplies:
1/2pint jar(s) with holes in lid
vermiculite
brown rice flour
big pan w lid
smaller pan
foil
spore syringe
glass measuring cup
A second syringe (unless you use all of your spores from the syringe you'll need an extra one)
The Process
1. Put 2/3 cups vermiculite and 1/4 cups Brown rice flower in 1/2 pint jar.
2. Put jar(s) in pan and boil them with the lid on.
3. Boil a little more than 1/4 cups water for every jar in the smaller pan, cover the pan TIGHTLY with foil.
4. Let both pan's boil for about 30 minutes.
5. Let everything cool for about 2 hours.
6. Poke hole through the foil of the smaller pan and inject about 1cc for every jar you are going to inoculate.
7. Sterilize measuring cup in microwave, once its done imediatly cover the top with foil. let it cool for a while.
8. Use a sterile syringe to suck up the inoculated water and shoot it into the measuring cup through a hole made in the foil.
9. Suck up the right amounts (1/4 cup per jar) of inoculated water from the measuring cup and realease it into the jars.
10.Shake up the jars to evenly distibute the innoculated water.
Your Done, now just wait.................
Hip's Bulk Tek
Check out HIPPIEHAVEN http://www.geocities.com/SouthBeach/Marina/7382
First, let me say that I'm a big fan of the PF Amazonian 'classic' strain (still my #1!) and a firm disciple of the PF Tek. PF himself has my utmost respect and all my little 'innovations' are merely elaborations upon his ideas.
In my mind, the biggest drawback to the tek is the damn 1/2 pint jars... they cost $$, can be hard to find, and must be washed after use, quite a chore if more than just a dozen or so are involved.
So let's talk about oven bags. As in Reynolds-brand oven bags, used for roasting turkeys, chicken, etc. whole. They come in various sizes - small is 10" by 16", rated to hold 4 pounds weight and oven-safe at up to 400░ F.
They are also available much larger, as in the 'turkey' size, are cheap (a few bucks, <$5 for a box of five 'small') and available year round in any decent grocery store.
They make dandy 'jars' for PF-style substrate in bulk amounts. Just mix up enough rice/verm. for X # of jars, (see note at bottom for a few ideas on this part) spoon into the bag, tie the bag closed, bake at 250░ F for 45 min. Allow to cool in the oven until safe to touch. Stick the now cooled oven bag inside another, larger bag, ziplock and let cool to room temp. When cool, one can inject spores/innoculant right through the plastic (seal hole with tape). Once white growth becomes visible in a few days, one can speed up colonization by shaking the bag, and mixing the patches into uncolonized areas. Once fairly well along, (in a sterile environ, such as in front of oven door ala the Captain's Oven Technique) the bag can be opened and a filtered air tube inserted to enhance growth. Instead of spores, one can use mycellial solutions, spent cakes (remove outer surface & use clean core), etc.
Note: one can fit rather large amounts into these bags but contamination losses increase proportionately. Try it with enough for 6 jars 1st & see what you think.
A few pointers:
Double bag the substrate - i.e. fill a regular size oven bag with the substrate, seal that by twisting and the tie included in the box (heat-resistant, non-metallic for microwave fans), then place that inside yet another, larger oven bag and seal it likewise.
Squeeze most of the air out of the inner bag so steam has room to expand and leave some air in the outer large bag, so as the inner bag cools, any air sucked in is also sterile.
Once "baked" for 45 minutes, pop the entire thing in yet a larger third ziplock storage bag, the kind that can handle hot foods. Then into the fridge to cool.
Use an electric mixer on low to mix up 4 - 6 jars worth of substrate in a few seconds in a large bowl.
When filling the oven bags, fold back the rim several inches, so no foodstuff gets on the bag near the neck/seal.
When innoculating, don't let the needle touch the substrate, just raise the plastic above the 'cake' an inch or so & squirt spores everywhere, about 3 cc will do plenty. (About 3 dozen 'jars' worth with 1 syringe!!)
After innoculation, throw several into a black plastic trashbag to keep out the light & help prevent contams.
Mycelium Innoculation Technique
This is a significant improvement of the PF-Tek which enables you to grow virtually hundreds of PF-cakes with only one spore syringe! Also the primordia will appear in as little as 16 days after inoculation! The key is first to colonize a sterilized rye jar and then use this mycelium to make a mycelium syringe.
For the first part I basically use the The Foolproof Psilocybe Cubensis Mycelial Culture Technique which can be found at The Shroomery. I use 100g (3,2 ounces) rye + 100 g water + a knife tip of gypsum in a 450 ml (1 pint) jar. There is an important detail to prevent airborne contamination entering the jars (the rye and later the rice-vermiculite!): Take a clean plastic bag and spray the inner side with Lysol. Rub it from outside so the Lysol is evenly dispersed on the inner surface of the bag. When the sterilization time is over, wait a few minutes for the pressure to build down to ambient. Then take a clean, folded cloth or thick gloves, open the cooker and transfer the (burning hot!) jars to the bag. Roll the rest of the bag together, so you get it pretty airtight. As the hot air in the jars is cooling down and its volume decreases, fresh (contaminated!) air from outside is drawn in. This setup will accomplish that the contaminants from the air set down on the wet bag surface and don't come into the jars! The sterilization time should be at least 45 minutes, better 1 hour to assure complete sterilization. You should shake the rye jars immediately after spore inoculation and than once after 3-4 days and after 8 days. The optimum growth temperature is about 29░C (85░F). Now the best part. You will need:
At least one empty plastic syringe, like the one from PF
A small (app. 200 ml) jar with a screw lid (I take one from a spaghetti sauce)
Tin foil
Alcohol lamp
A tea spoon
Punch a hole with a small nail into the middle of the lid. It has to be big enough for the needle of the syringe fits through. Fill the jar with app. twice the amount of water you will need to fill the syringes. (for instance when you have three syringes with each 10 ml to fill, take app. 60 ml).Screw the lid and cover with a double layer of tin foil, sterilize in a pressure cooker and then handle according to the above tips. After it has cooled down to room temperature prepare all for the transfer of the colonized rye to the water filled jar. Wash your hands, clean the working surface, take the colonized rye jar, loosen the lid of the water jar, but don't take it off jet. Sterilize the already washed and Lysol-sprayed spoon over the flame of the alcohol lamp. I use to cool the hot spoon by dipping it in a small glass of alcohol, but you can also wait a few moments the spoon cools down. Than open the rye jar, the water jar and transfer 2 spoon full of colonized rye to the water jar. This should obviously best be done under sterile conditions, but if you work fast an in a draft free room you should accomplish this without contaminating the whole jar. Replace the lids back and screw them tight. The rye jar can be kept in a fridge at least three months and be used over and over again.
Take the water jar, put a finger on the tin foil where the hole is and shake it vigorously at least 3 minutes until you see many tiny mycelium pieces swimming in the water. Take a clean, sterilized syringe, sterilize the tip of the needle over the flame and pull (holding the needle still in the flame) the plunger back 4 millimeters (1/5 inch). This will give you a little airspace so later on you can shake the mycelium water prior to inoculation of the PF jars.
Remove the tin cover, hold the jar at an angle, insert the needle into water and pull the plunger until the syringe is full. Be careful the syringe needle is clean and sterilized or you will contaminate the mycelium water.
That┤s it! You can now use this syringe like you would use the spore-water one. You can keep the mycelium syringes in the fridge at least 2 months.
Straw As A Substrate
If you don't want to go through with the shredding proccess described below, you can get pre-shredded staw from Mushroom Magic. Be sure to report back on your results
Sure I can elaborate a little on how to use straw as a substrate. I will do a quick run-down on how to prepare small amounts a pastuerized straw in your kitchen. I like to use small amounts because it is easier, but this method can be used for any size project. Anyway,....
....First, you need to locate some suitable (dry & mold-free) straw. Wheat and oat straw are ideal, but other straws will work. Hay will also work, but try to find a source that doesn't have large quatities of seeds. A few seeds can boost yields but too many can cause contamination out-breaks. Straw straight from the bail will work, but pre-shredding it prior to use will help. The easiest way to do this is with a shredder. Or, if using small amounts just place some straw in a cardboard box use a sharp pair of grass shears(chop,chop,chop...). You want the pieces to be 1-3 inches in length.
....Now we need a large stock pot (20qt+) to pastuerize the straw in. Fill the pot about half way full of hot tap-water and heat it till near boiling on a stove burner. Next, take your shredded straw and place it into a nylon mesh lingerie bag (from Wal-mart in the laundry section) and submerge it into the hot water. Place a heavy bowl (or something similar) on the bag to keep it competely under water. Put the lid on the pot and let the straw steep at about ~150deg.F~ for one full hour making sure that water doesn't boil dry. After 1 hour, take out the bag (wear rubber gloves) and place it into a large pasta strainer to cool and drain. If you want to be extra cautious you can take your pot and invert it over the strainer to prevent air-bourne contamination....But, this isn't really necessary because pastuerized straw is fairly resistant to contaminants....
....Once cool ('bout 45min-1hour), give the bag a good squeeze to get rid of the excess water. Now you are ready for inoculation. I like to dump the straw in a large clean rubbermaid container and then mix in some grain spawn by hand (wash with antibacterial soap or wear gloves). Now pack your straw+spawn into a suitable container. I like to use small rubbermaid containers. Cover the top with tinfoil and puncture with a clean needle several times. Proceed with the spawn-run. You should have about two weeks (plenty of time!) to establish the mycelium of choice. Well, thats about it....a little bit longer than I expected but o'well. Oh yea, straw is also good for cultivating Pan cyan, Ps. tampanensis, and Pleurotus ("oyster mushrooms") species. For using larger amounts, use a 55 gallon drum heated with a propane burner.....Good Luck!
Extracting alkaloids from Psilocybe
Extraction Instructions for obtaining Psilocin and Psilocybin from Psilocybe or Panaeolus.
I have not tried this method; it is taken from the classic volume (in French) and based on that used by Albert Hofmann.
Le Genre Panaeolus: Essai taxinomique et physiologique par Gyorgy Miklos OLA'H Laboratoire De Cryptogamie du Museum National D'histoire Naturelle 12, rue de Buffon, Paris. Memoire hors-series No 10, 1970. Page 97.
1. Dry the mushrooms.
This important step is most likely to cause the greatest loss of yield depending on how it is done. Crush or grind the dried carpophores or mycelium to a powder.
2. Shake and allow to stand (e.g. 30 mins) in chloroform. Use maybe twice the dry weight in solvents at every step, or enough to well cover the powder.
3. Filter and discard the chloroform.
4. Shake the reidue and allow to stand with acetone.
5. Filter and discard the acetone.
6. Shake residue and allow to stand with methanol.
7. Filter.
8. Shake residue and allow to stand with methanol.
9. Filter.
10. Shake residue and allow to stand with methanol.
11. Filter.
12. Discard residue.
13. Combine methanol extracts.
14. Evaporate methanol to dryness, preferably in a vacuum, although low heat will do.
This will yield a crude extract containing the active tryptamines, suitable for most purposes. This can be further chromatographed on cellulose etc. to give pure psilocin and psilocybin. The recommended solvents are n-Butanol saturated with water, and n-butanol:acetic acid:water (24:10:10). Anyone wishing to do chromatography should check the relevant texts for more detailed instructions.
